Solar Electric

 

Small Solar Electric Systems

A small solar electric or photovoltaic (PV) system can be a reliable and pollution-free producer of electricity for your home or office. And they're becoming more affordable all the time. Small PV systems also provide a cost-effective power supply in locations where it is expensive or impossible to send electricity through conventional power lines.
Because PV technologies use both direct and scattered sunlight to create electricity, the solar resource across the United States is ample for small solar electric systems. However, the amount of power generated by a solar system at a particular site depends on how much of the sun's energy reaches it. Thus, PV systems, like all solar technologies, function most efficiently in the southwestern United States, which receives the greatest amount of solar energy.
You can also use PV technology to provide outdoor lighting.
Here you can find the following information:

• How Small Solar Electric Systems Work

  Learn the basics of how a small PV system produces electricity.

• Considering a Small Solar Electric System

  Start here to determine whether a small PV system would be feasible, practical, and economical for you.

• Small Solar Electric System Components

  Learn more about system components—solar cells, modules, and balance-of-system parts.

• Installing and Maintaining a Small Solar Electric System

  Find out what you need to consider before you install a system, including basic maintenance tips.

Selecting a New Water Heater

 

Selecting a New Water Heater

You have a lot to consider when selecting a new water heater for your home. You should choose a water heating system that will not only provide enough hot water but also that will do so energy efficiently, saving you money. This includes considering the different types of water heaters available and determining the right size and fuel source for your home.

Types of Water Heaters

It's a good idea to know the different types of water heaters available before you purchase one:

• Conventional storage water heaters

  Offer a ready reservoir (storage tank) of hot water

• Demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters

  Heat water directly without the use of a storage tank

• Heat pump water heaters

  Move heat from one place to another instead of generating heat directly for providing hot water

• Solar water heaters

  Use the sun's heat to provide hot water

• Tankless coil and indirect water heaters

  Use a home's space heating system to heat water

Selection Criteria

When selecting the best type and model of water heater for your home, you also need to consider the following:

• Fuel type, availability and cost

  The fuel type or energy source you use for water heating will not only affect the water heater's annual operation costs but also its size and energy efficiency.

• Size

  To provide your household with enough hot water and to maximize efficiency, you need a properly sized water heater.

• Energy efficiency

  To maximize your energy and cost savings, you want to know how energy efficient a water heater is before you purchase it.

• Costs

  Before you purchase a water heater, it's also a good idea to estimate its annual operating costs and compare those costs with other less or more energy-efficient models.

energy efficient appliances and fixtures

Reduce Hot Water Use for Energy Savings

You can lower your water heating costs by using and wasting less hot water in your home. To conserve hot water, you can fix leaks, install low-flow fixtures, and purchase an energy-efficient dishwasher and clothes washer

Fix Leaks

You can significantly reduce hot water use by simply repairing leaks in fixtures—faucets and showerheads—or pipes. A leak of one drip per second can cost $1 per month.

If your water heater's tank leaks, you need a new water heater.

Install Low-Flow Fixtures

Federal regulations mandate that new showerhead flow rates can't exceed more than 2.5 gallons per minute (gpm) at a water pressure of 80 pounds per square inch (psi). New faucet flow rates can't exceed 2.5 gpm at 80 psi or 2.2 gpm at 60 psi. You can purchase some quality, low-flow fixtures for around $10 to $20 a piece and achieve water savings of 25%–60%.

Showerheads

For maximum water efficiency, select a shower head with a flow rate of less than 2.5 gpm. There are two basic types of low-flow showerheads: aerating and laminar-flow. Aerating showerheads mix air with water, forming a misty spray. Laminar-flow showerheads form individual streams of water. If you live in a humid climate, you might want to use a laminar-flow showerhead because it won't create as much steam and moisture as an aerating one.

Before 1992, some showerheads had flow rates of 5.5 gpm. Therefore, if you have fixtures that pre-date 1992, you might want to replace them if you're not sure of their flow rates. Here's a quick test to determine whether you should replace a showerhead:

        Place a bucket—marked in gallon increments—under your shower head.

        Turn on the shower at the normal water pressure you use.

        Time how many seconds it takes to fill the bucket to the 1-gallon (3.8 liter) mark.

If it takes less than 20 seconds to reach the 1-gallon mark, you could benefit from a low-flow shower head.

Faucets

The aerator—the screw-on tip of the faucet—ultimately determines the maximum flow rate of a faucet. Typically, new kitchen faucets come equipped with aerators that restrict flow rates to 2.2 gpm, while new bathroom faucets have ones that restrict flow rates from 1.5 to 0.5 gpm.

Aerators are inexpensive to replace and they can be one of the most cost-effective water conservation measures. For maximum water efficiency, purchase aerators that have flow rates of no more than 1.0 gpm. Some aerators even come with shut-off valves that allow you to stop the flow of water without affecting the temperature. When replacing an aerator, bring the one you're replacing to the store with you to ensure a proper fit.

Purchase Energy-Efficient Dishwashers and Clothes Washers

The biggest cost of washing dishes and clothes comes from the energy required to heat the water. You'll significantly reduce your energy costs if you purchase and use an energy-efficient dishwasher and clothes washer.

Dishwashers

It's commonly assumed that washing dishes by hand saves hot water. However, washing dishes by hand several time a day can be more expensive than operating an energy-efficient dishwasher. You can consume less energy with an energy-efficient dishwasher when properly used and when only operating it with full loads.

When purchasing a new dishwasher, check the EnergyGuide label to see how much energy it uses. Dishwashers fall into one of two categories: compact capacity and standard capacity. Although compact-capacity dishwashers may appear to be more energy efficient on the EnergyGuide Label, they hold fewer dishes, which may force you to use it more frequently. In this case, your energy costs could be higher than with a standard-capacity dishwasher.

One feature that makes a dishwasher more energy efficient is a booster heater. A booster heater increases the temperature of the water entering the dishwasher to the 140ºF recommended for cleaning. Some dishwashers have built-in boosters, while others require manual selection before the wash cycle begins. Some also only activate the booster during the heavy-duty cycle. Dishwashers with booster heaters typically cost more, but they pay for themselves with energy savings in about 1 year if you also lower the water tempature on your water heater.

Another dishwasher feature that reduces hot water use is the availability of cycle selections. Shorter cycles require less water, thereby reducing energy cost.

If you want to ensure that your new dishwasher is energy efficient, purchase one with an ENERGY STAR® label.

Clothes Washers

Unlike dishwashers, clothes washers don't require a minimum temperature for optimum cleaning. Therefore, to reduce energy costs, you can use either cold or warm water for most laundry loads. Cold water is always sufficient for rinsing.

Inefficient clothes washers can cost three times as much to operate than energy-efficient ones. Select a new machine that allows you to adjust the water temperature and levels for different loads. Efficient clothes washers spin-dry your clothes more effectively too, saving energy when drying as well. Also, front-loading machines use less water and, consequently, less energy than top loaders.

Small-capacity clothes washers often have better EnergyGuide label ratings. However, a reduced capacity might increase the number of loads you need to run, which could increase your energy costs.

If you want to ensure that your new clothes washer is energy efficient, purchase one with an ENERGY STAR label.

Lower Water Heating Temperature for Energy Savings

You can reduce your water heating costs by simply lowering the thermostat setting on your water heater. For each 10ºF reduction in water temperature, you can save between 3%–5% in energy costs.

Although some manufacturers set water heater thermostats at 140ºF, most households usually only require them set at 120ºF. Water heated at 140ºF also poses a safety hazard—scalding. However, if you have a dishwasher without a booster heater, it may require a water temperature within a range of 130ºF to 140ºF for optimum cleaning.

Reducing your water temperature to 120ºF also slows mineral buildup and corrosion in your water heater and pipes. This helps your water heater last longer and operate at its maximum efficiency.

Consult your water heater owner's manual for instructions on how to operate the thermostat. You can find a thermostat dial for a gas storage water heater near the bottom of the tank on the gas valve. Electric water heaters, on the other hand, may have thermostats positioned behind screw-on plates or panels. As a safety precaution, shut off the electricity to the water heater before removing/opening the panels. Keep in mind that an electric water heater may have two thermostats—one each for the upper and lower heating elements.

Mark the beginning temperature and the adjusted temperature on the thermostat dial for future reference. After turning it down, check the water temperature with a thermometer at the tap farthest from the water heater. Thermostat dials are often inaccurate. Several adjustments may be necessary before you get the right temperature.

If you plan to be away from home for at least 3 days, turn the thermostat down to the lowest setting or completely turn off the water heater. To turn off an electric water heater, switch off the circuit breaker to it. For a gas water heater, make sure you know how to safely relight the pilot light before turning it off.

Watering Tips

       

Water your lawn in early morning.

        Be kind to the environment and save water and money by watering your lawn in the early morning. The least water will be lost to evaporation at this time. An early morning watering schedule also reduces disease problems and poor water distribution caused by wind.

       

        Give lawns grown on sandy soils 1/2 inch of water when irrigating. Lawns on heavy soils should receive 1 inch.

       

        Measure irrigation water by placing a can or two on your lawn to catch the water. Compacted soils may take several shorter periods of irrigation to allow the water to be absorbed. Avoid surface runoff. Sandy soils may require more frequent watering, for example, 1/2 inch every three days. Don't water fescue, bluegrass, or ryegrass lawns in the summer unless you plan to do so all season. Many of these types of lawns are lost by discontinuing irrigation in midsummer. Be consistent with your watering routine; your lawn can't go on vacation with you. 


       

        Don't water until you see first signs of wilt.

        Wilted lawns have a blue-green appearance, leaf curl, or footprints that remain on the lawn. Look along sidewalks or roadside surfaces for first signs of wilt. Light, frequent watering promotes shallow roots and weakens turf.

Don't overwater

This promotes diseases and excessive growth.

Grasscycling & Mulching

What is Grasscycling

Grasscycling is the natural recycling of grass by leaving short grass clippings on the lawn when mowing. Grass clippings will quickly decompose, returning valuable nutrients to the soil.

Grasscycling saves time and money, and protects the environment. Mowing time is reduced since the bagging and disposal of clippings is eliminated. Grass clippings add valuable nutrients and organic matter to the soil and produces healthy, green lawns. Grasscycling reduces turf grass fertilizer and water requirements, which minimize chemical runoff entering storm drains and polluting creeks, rivers, and lakes.

Grasscycling also reduces the amount of yard trimmings disposed in landfills. Research has shown that lawns generate approximately 300 pounds of grass clippings per 1000 square feet annually. This amounts to 6 1/2 tons per acre each year! Grass clippings are too valuable to throw away, and grasscycling allows reuse of this green material in our urban landscapes.        

       

Guidelines for Mowing Heights

Lawngrass	Height after mowing (inches)
Bermudagrass	3/4 to 1
Centipedegrass	1
St.Augustinegrass	3 to 4
Bahiagrass	3 to 4
Zoysiagrass	3/4 to 1 1/2
Tall Fescue	2 1/2 to 3 1/2
Kentucky Bluegrass	1 1/2 to 2 1/2
Fine Fescue	1 1/2 to 2 1/2
Perennial Ryegrass	1 1/2 to 2 ½

        Yard waste can account for 20% of the solid waste in local landfills, and up to 50% of all yard waste is grass clippings. Grass clippings are recyclable and do not need to take up valuable landfill space. To deal with the solid waste crisis in Florida, all of us will have to make major changes in the way we handle yard waste.

Using grass clippings as a source of fertilizer for your lawn can save time and money and help protect the environment.

Leaving grass clippings on your lawn can generate up to 25% of the lawn's yearly fertilizer needs and reduce the amount of time and money you spend fertilizing and bagging. Lawns stay greener and healthier when clippings are left on them.

Some Common Questions:

Does grasscycling cause thatch?


No. Research has shown that grass roots are the primary cause of thatch, not grass clippings. Thatch is composed primarily of roots, stems, rhizomes, and other plant materials. These plant materials contain large amounts of lignin (fibrous material) and decompose slowly. Grass clippings are approximately 80-85 percent water with only small amounts of lignin, and decompose rapidly.


Does grasscycling spread lawn disease?


No. Research has shown that grass roots are the primary cause of thatch, not grass clippings. Thatch is composed primarily of roots, stems, rhizomes, and other plant materials. These plant materials contain large amounts of lignin (fibrous material) and decompose slowly. Grass clippings are approximately 80-85 percent water with only small amounts of lignin, and decompose rapidly.


Will grasscycling make my lawn look bad?


No. If a lawn is properly mowed, watered, and fertilized, grasscycling can actually produce a healthier looking lawn. It is important to cut the lawn frequently to produce small clippings that will decompose quickly. If a lawn is not cut frequently and clippings are left on the lawn, it will produce a "hay-like" look which can be unsightly.

Mulching

 

How To Mulch

Mulch is used for appearance, moisture retention, weed control, and in keeping soil temperatures warm in the winter, cool in the summer. Mulching is helpful to keep erosion from occurring in landscapes. It is placed around bedding plants, trees, and shrubs. Listed is information on the proper way of how to mulch.

 

Mulch Types

There are different types of mulch to choose from which are sold at garden centers by the bag. Types that are usually available are cedar or cypress mulch. Both are considered to be a higher grade. Nurseries offer loose wood mulch in large quantities, which can be delivered ( Be prepared for a pile dumped on your property ). Some counties offer free mulch to be picked up that is usually a lower grade, although can be sufficient. A pickup truck will be needed to transport it to your location. Contact your local extension service for information on free mulch.

 

 Tips And Information For Mulching

Proper mulching is important for the health of plants, trees, and shrubs. Follow these helpful tips to assure it is done correctly. Also listed is some information on mulch.


1 Applying the amount of mulch is determined by the texture and it’s density. Spread fine mulch two to three inches deep after settling to avoid suffocating the roots of plants. It is not necessary to apply excessive amounts when mulching. Plus using too much mulch is just a waste of money.


2  Mulch composed of shredded or small leaves such as oak leaves should not be spread exceeding a depth of two inches. The leaves become compacted together which restricts water and air to the root system. DO NOT pile too high.


3 DO NOT pile mulch close to or against the base of any tree or shrub. This can cause ” ROOT – ROT ” from lack of air circulation and too much moisture retention. Leave space around the base and trunk when mulching.


4 DO NOT place mulch above the lower stems of shrubs burying them causing them to rot. This will promote a disease known as ” STEM – ROT “.


5 DO NOT put mulch up against or too close to the trunk of citrus trees. Place around at the end of where the canopy extends to or do not mulch at all, for it really is not necessary for mulching citrus trees.


6  Mulch in larger pieces last longer and is better for weed control. Fine mulch adds nutrients to the soil faster by breaking down quicker.


7  Professional landscapers mostly use a mulch containing both fine and course wood mulch.


8 Organic mulch does not need to be replaced more often and less is required as the plants or shrubs mature.


9 AVOID piling mulch up against walls of buildings when mulching in order to keep from attracting termites. Place it at least two feet away from your home.


10 DO NOT leave old mulch in your landscape for a long time. Clean it out and replace it with fresh brand new, to avoid fungus problems to your plants, and shrubs.


11 It is  NOT recommended to use a ” RED – DYED ” mulch which can create a chemical un – balance in the soil. This can be harmful to the health of plants, trees, and shrubs.


12 I don’t prefer to use pine bark nuggets for they attract the nesting of carpenter ants which will eventually wind up in your home, especially if placed too close to it.
Following the information on mulching listed above, will help you achieve the successful garden and landscape wanted by everyone. Proper usage of mulch is an important part of landscaping.

Composting for condo dwellers

Composting is a good option but not always practical for people who live in high-rise buildings. Using a garbage disposer is an environmentally responsible option. More than half of American kitchens have a disposer. On average, they cost less than 50 cents a year in electricity to operate and account for less than one percent of a household’s total water consumption.So, if you can’t compost at your home, then use your garbage disposer to help the environment.

How to Compost at Home

Compost is what you get when yard and garden debris, kitchen scraps and other organic materials have completely broken down into a rich, dark, crumbly material. Gardeners call it “black gold,” because it is so rich in nutrients and adds so much value you when add it to your soil. If you put your food waste in the trash it will be trucked to a landfill. Trucking food to landfills generates diesel fumes and emissions. And as food decomposes in landfills, it releases methane, a greenhouse gas. In the right conditions, bacteria and other microorganisms quickly break down organic material into rich, fertile earth that you can add to your soil to increase its fertility and health. After the organisms have done their thing, they generate finished compost, which has lots of minerals and micro-nutrients in an easily accessible form for plant Composting is cheap and easy to learn, but there is a little bit of an art to it that comes with practice. Breaking down waste requires the right amount of moisture, heat, soil aeration and a proper mix of materials. And here’s the good news. We’re going to teach you how to do it on this site, which will reduce your learning curve significantly. So where do you go from here? Composting at home is a simple task that is easy, and can bring many positive results in the end for your home or garden. The task may at first seem overwhelming or daunting – but have no fear, it’s quite simple. When home composting, you can add things such as a compost pail to your kitchen. A compost pail will allow you to store food scraps while preparing food, so that you can take them out to the compost bin every few days. When you take items out to the compost bin, you want to make sure that you have a proper balance of Nitrogen and Carbon rich materials. This means in addition to your food scraps, you want to have leaves, grass, newspaper clippings and items of the sort to aid in proper composting.     Nitrogen Rich Materials Include: Vegetables (Asparagus, Carrots, Cucumbers, Lettuce, etc) Fruits (Apples, Bananas, Blackberries, Melons, Pineapples, etc) Starch-like Food Items (Rice, Potatoes) Oats, Oatmeal, Grass Clippings, Sod, Hay, Hops Coffee Grounds Carbon Rich Materials Include: Cardboard Leaves Newspaper Sawdust Tea Bags Egg Shells Corn Cobs and Stalks Leaves. Not Recommended for Your Compost Pile: Bones Cheese Diseased Plants Fish Meat Milk (or any other dairy product for that matter) Peanut Butter Vacuum Bags (or any other sort of item as such that will contain a lot of dust) Your compost bin in the back could be as intricate as a store-bought tumbling composter, or as simple as a homemade bin created from wire and wood. The most important thing is that you are checking your compost, and turning it regularly. How to build a compost pile: A compost pile is easy to make and doesn’t require much space. In order to reach optimal temperatures, the pile should be at least 3 feet wide, 3 feet across, and 3 feet tall (one cubic yard). That is the minimum size to generate temperatures that can kill weeds and pathogens, but smaller compost piles will also work with reduced efficiency. Larger piles work even better because their size will increase the temperature in the pile, but anything taller than 8 feet is overkill. Extremely large piles of compost are at risk for spontaneous combustion, and they are also extremely difficult to aerate properly. To build a compost pile, start by clearing off a patch of ground. Choose a spot that’s away from trees or fast growing vines – the roots from these plants can infiltrate the compost pile and suck away nutrients. It’s also important to remove any weeds or seeds from the area – if your compost pile fails to get hot enough, these seeds will get mixed into the finished product and may germinate when you use the compost as potting soil or fertilizer. The best ground for a compost pile will be slightly elevated and have excellent drainage. It is also a good idea to locate compost piles away from inhabited buildings, gardens, or silos because they can attract insects. If you plan to build a very large pile, be sure to put footpaths every 8 feet or so that are wide enough for a wheel barrel. Then, line the ground with groundcloth or plastic liner to protect against root intrusion. If there are moles, groundhogs, or other burrowing animals in your area, you may want to put a layer of chicken coop wire or hardware cloth too. Avoid putting the compost pile against a wooden fence or deck – the compost can stain wood and may encourage rotting. After you pick out the perfect spot, it’s a good idea to gather separate piles of ‘green’ and ‘brown’ organic matter. Green waste is high in nitrogen – it includes things such as vegetable scraps, fresh grass clippings, and manure from herbivores. Brown waste has a high concentration of carbon – it includes things such as leaves, dried grass, and twigs. Break these components into very small pieces, but save a few sticks for building support structures. The more surface area your ingredients have, the faster they will decompose. Start with a layer of brown waste and leave plenty of airspace at the bottom of your compost pile – this will help with drainage and also create a chimney effect of airflow. Use your piles of organic material to create alternating layers of brown and green waste. Sticks and split logs are important for building the pile because they will provide support and hold everything together. Use twigs in the compost pile the same way that you would use them to build a campfire – with alternating rows and columns that allow air to flow through easily. The center of the pile will have to support the most weight, so you may want to use the thickest sticks in that area. If you plan on turning your compost pile regularly, don’t worry so much about structure. Instead, you may want to feed your sticks through a wood chipper to get the most surface area and the fastest decomposition. Animals and pests are often attracted to the smell of rotting garbage. If you put a lot of green waste into your compost pile, it can be a very good idea to put fresh waste near the bottom and under sticks or thorns. Such a barrier will do a good job keeping raccoons and skunks away, but insects and rodents will often be able to sneak through very small openings, and snakes may also move into the pile to feed on them. Because of this, it’s a very good idea to wear protective clothing and make plenty of noise to scare animals away when turning a compost pile. Keep building your compost pile until you run out of materials. Each layer can be as thick or as thin as you’d like to make it. The best way is to use thin layers of green material (2-4 inches) and thicker layers of brown materials (5-7 inches). If you don’t have any green waste available when building your pile, it may be a good idea to add one of the following as a compost activator: manure from a grass eater (ie; cow, sheep, goat, llama, hamster, gerbil, rabbit, chicken), alfalfa meal, bloodmeal, bonemeal, coffee grounds, or even just soil from another part of your yard. Cat and dog droppings are not recommended because they may carry disease. Horse manure is not recommended because it has a high number of weed seeds. Depending on your climate, it may be a good idea to cover your compost pile with a tarp. This is necessary if rainfall or snow is heavy in your area, because excess moisture can slow down the composting process. Moisture should be in the same range as a wrung out sponge – if you can extract water by pressing or squeezing the compost in your hand, then there’s too much moisture. There are other ways to protect your compost pile from the weather, such as placing it under a tree or under a roof overhang, but they have drawbacks (trees rob the compost pile of nutrients and building a compost pile against a building can attract pests inside). To get around this, you may want to take advantage of dead trees or unoccupied buildings, such as a garden shed, patio, or arbor. The final step is waiting. Let nature take its course, and before you know it, you’ll have a pile of rich, black gold (no, not the kind that you can put in your gas tank, but the kind of natural fertilizer that plants thrive on). Finished compost has a carbon to nitrogen ratio of about 15:1. The resulting material is coarse, crumbly, and spongy – a perfect mulch for absorbing water and gradually releasing nutrients into the soil. Potential solutions to compost odor: Are you dealing with compost odor, or afraid to begin composting because you’re worried about bad smells? If your compost has a bad odor, then there is something wrong. When the composting process is working correctly, then there are not any bad smells or strong odors. Compost has a strong ammonia smell A strong ammonia smell is typically related to too many nitrogen rich materials, and too much moisture.                             Solution: Add sawdust, shredded leaves, shredded newspaper or shredded cardboard to add more carbon rich materials, dry out the pile, and bring it back into balance. If it’s a bin, leave the lid off in sunny weather so that the moisture can burn off. Compost smells rotten A rotten smell is usually related to adding materials to your pile that should not have been composted in the first place. Are you added meat, dairy, grease or bones to your compost pile or bin? If so, stop! Solution: You can try adding more carbon rich materials like leaves and sawdust to bury the smelly materials. You could dig a hole and bury the entire contents of the bin or pile and start over, avoiding meat, dairy, grease and bones in your next batch. Trench composting takes place underground, but there aren’t any smells because the materials are fully buried. "Odors can be reduced, or eliminated, by following two practices: first, remember to not put bones or meat scraps into the compost; second, cover new additions to the compost pile with dry grass clippings or similar mulch. Adding lime or calcium will also neutralize odors. If the compost smells like ammonia, add carbon-rich elements such as straw, peat moss or dried leaves. Too much nitrogen makes for a heavy, smelly, slowly decomposing mass. Good composting hygiene means covering fresh nitrogen-rich material, which can release odors if exposed to open air, with carbon-rich material, which often exudes a fresh, wonderful smell. If in doubt, add more carbon!" A compost pile should have about a 50-50 mix of brown and green matter. Brown matter is low in nitrogen can include leaves, wood chips, old hay and shredded newspaper. Green matter is high in nitrogen and usually means manure or grass clippings. A compost pile that's too high in nitrogen will smell bad. One with too little nitrogen won't rot. Keeping it aerated and moist will help it decompose faster. Adding a little powdered limestone will reduce odors

Composting at home is a simple task that is easy, and can bring many positive results in the end for your home or garden. The task may at first seem overwhelming or daunting – but have no fear, it’s quite simple.

The Plastic Sandwich Bag Flunks

An article in the New York Times dated Saturday, August 27, 2011 satated in part the following, “Many retailers and schools are advocating waste-free options for back -to –school shoppers this year, especially when it comes to lunch. The trend makes the schools happy (much less garbage). It makes the stores happy (higher back-to-school shopping). It makes the students happy (green feels good). “ here are some ideas for mom & dad:

      1.     Use Tupperware instead of ziplocs,

2.     Neoprene lunch bags instead of brown paper ones,

3.     Aluminum water bottles, not the throwaway plastic versions,

4.     Staples has rows of eco-friendly lunch containers, like an Extreme flap luncbox case with a compartment for plastic food boxes, and a Yak Pak lunch tote that looks like a purse,

5.     At a place called the Container Store in New York, there are even machine -washable napkins and reusable cotton sandwich bags called snackTaxis, Japanese bento –box style-style lunch boxes, andBobble water bottles with built-in filters